Balancing culture and heritage with contemporary fine dining

West Bengal’s culinary landscape is a vibrant reflection of its rich cultural heritage, dipped in tradition and flavoured by the state’s connections to festivals and celebrations. From the richness of Durga Puja to the warmth of Poila Boishakh, food plays an important role in Bengal's festive spirit. Iconic dishes like Bhapa Ilish, Shorshe Chingri, and Sandesh are more than meals; they are a celebration of art, community, and identity of Bengal. 

As modern fine dining slowly emerges in Bengal, traditional culinary practices remain central to its heart, bridging the past and present through flavours that grow nostalgia alike. Now as days passes,  Bengal's culinary landscape is undergoing a transformation; the fine dining is gradually overshadowing traditional heritage eateries. According to Debaditya Chaudhury, Managing Director of Chowman, Oudh 1590, and Chapter 2, the shift is particularly visible in metropolitan cities like Kolkata, where younger generations are more attracted towards fine dining experiences over age-old culinary items.

“Restaurants have become the only and popular outing destination for people. Moreover, with K-Pop making a huge impact on pop-up stalls, youngsters are the major facet of consumers with their affordability and financial exposure unlike the earlier times,” Chaudhury explains. He notes that while traditional eateries once held a central place in Bengal’s F&B scene, many are now struggling to stay relevant in an era where ambiance, decor, and dining experience are often prioritised over food alone. This evolution is slowly reshaping “The impact is passive to the extent of the coming generations being oblivious and unaware of our heritage eateries and their essence that make an integral part of Bengal’s F&B scenes,” Chaudhury says.

Festive flavours of Durga Puja

Yet, the grand Durga Puja festival remains a time when tradition and food come together in a grand celebration. Restaurants like Chowman, Oudh 1590, and Chapter 2 gear up for the occasion with strategic changes. “This Puja we are doing a major branding alteration and brand campaign,” reveals Chaudhury. “We are revamping each and every minor to major packaging, our decor in some of the restaurants have gone through a drastic alteration eschewing the traditional rustic Chinese ethos and incorporation a more contemporary Chinese ambiance. From Chopsticks to our menu cards, even for our carry bags, we will be incorporating an all new look to our brand,” he exclaimed. 

During Durga Puja, food becomes an essential part of the celebration, not just for diners but also for restaurateurs and small vendors. “In Bengal, Durga puja is all about two things- the majestic pandals and the food,” says Chaudhury. “We extend our operational hours till 2am,making waiting areas with pandal and siting facilities, omit time-taking items from the menu, and employ part time delivery boys for our self-owned fleet for faster delivery as well to manage the massive rush,” he added.

Preserving culinary trademarks of West Bengal

While contemporary fine dining grows in popularity, Chaudhury believes that preserving heritage eateries is essential to maintaining Bengal’s rich culinary chain. “Mitra Café has opened in Bangalore as well and has made a massive modification,” he explains. However, not all heritage establishments have been able to adapt as effectively. “I believe the cabin culture has the potential to take over many fine-dining restaurants with their food, and cabin format but only if it can be modified with the contemporary dining ambiance, enveloped with antique curios,” he adds.

Chaudhury also highlights the importance of maintaining authenticity in the face of global culinary trends. “To bring out the authentic taste, we initially imported raw products and sauces from China. But now, we have employed expert chefs all across India who undergo rigorous training from our Head-Chefs making in-house sauces and importing very less and ensuring affordability without compromising quality,” he says. With middle-class families and younger generations in mind, Chowman aims to deliver an authentic experience without crossing a certain price point.

A tug of tradition and innovation

“We’ve always wanted Chowman to be more than just a food- joint,” Chaudhury says. “I wanted to present not just Chinese food, but introduce their entire art of eating into every house-holds of Kolkata. We tried to incorporate our ‘authentic Chinese’ ideal in every minute detail.” This holistic approach to dining and delivery packages including Chopsticks, coupled with their cloud kitchen strategy, has kept Chowman leagues ahead in the competitive landscape.

As Bengal’s dining culture continues to evolve, it becomes clear that while innovation takes the industry forward, preserving the legacy of traditional eateries is equally important. With restaurateurs like Chaudhury striking a delicate balance between the two, the culinary future of Bengal remains bright and diverse, offering something different for every palate.