Heavenly Hospitality

THIS WEEK marks the beginning of Lord Ganesha celebrations in India and so I thought I would start with one of his many stories.

In Hindu Mythology, Kubera was the God of Wealth and owned all the world's riches. In the hope to make even the gods swoon over his prosperity, Kubera decided to invite Lord Shiva and Goddess Parvati for a sumptuous supper at his princely abode. Lord Shiva first declined but owing to Kubera's persistence agreed to send his son Lord Ganesha as he would love a good hearty meal. At Kubera's palatial residence, he tried to impress Ganesha with the diamond show plates and crystal chandeliers. But Ganesha was focussed only on the food and hence without further ado Kubera ordered this staff to bring out the buffet. Then he watched in amazement as plate after plate this little elephant-head boy polished of food made for a hundred. Kubera not to be defeated sent his men to buy all the food from the entire village. But that too wasn't enough to satiate his appetite. Unable to stomach the fact that he couldn't to satisfy his guest, Kubera rushed over to Lord Shiva to beg for forgiveness for being so arrogant and request him for help to gratify the little Lord. Lord Shiva without hesitation, offered him a modak to offer Ganesha. Kubera in disbelief asked how it could be possible that all the food in the world couldn't sate Ganesha's hunger but one modak would be enough? Lord Shiva explained that the modak was made by his mother hence food made and served with love was the answer.   

Indian hospitality is legendary. Be it the food coma when your best friend's mom arrives into town. Or the unending buffet at a family wedding. There is only one thing we enjoy more than eating and it is feeding! For all Indians, hospitality is not ostentation but a way of life.

Some restaurants have set the standard in hospitality from the warm welcomes to the fond farewells. We've all been to restaurants where the chef personally comes out to greet us and where the waiters remember our order. It is the personal attention given to each customer by 93-year-old Boman Kohinoor, that makes Mumbai's Britannia restaurant iconic. Mucchad's flair for hospitality makes him the most famous paanwalla in the city. The pampering service is what makes diners return for decades to the Taj and the Oberoi.

Newly opened restaurants however forget this ingrained Indian culture as they launch and turn away diners at the pretext of being sold out despite the vast number of empty tables. New pizzeria's refuse telephone reservations as a policy only to shun guests at the doors as well. Owners spend great monies on lighting and artefacts but refuse to shell out the big bucks to retain good staff. Chef's substitute ingredients to save on cost. And service staff lose their charm due to the long hours and late nights.

It is never about the quantity but about the quality. Opulent decor can never camouflage  uninspired food. Generous portions do not compensate for tasteless treats. And warm food cannot make up for cold service.

After all as the sanskrit saying goes 'Atithi Devo Bhava', 'the guest is God'.