Dine like a Maharaja

These were heady days for Biren Lal, the scion of a post-Partition family; resettled in New Delhi and Shimla, it is their stories that we recounted in our previous episodes on heirloom cuisine.

Biren was now in London, overseeing the Indian national carrier’s Europe operations. Affable and popular, he personified the very symbol of Air India's Maharaja. A bit of a dandy, he was known by the sobriquet 'his nibs.' Certainly, one of the best attired men of his profession, Biren favoured Saville row suits, highlighted by lapel boutonnières of a myriad of rainbow colours. All this, he paired with laced Oxfords along with his penchant for paisley ties, long coats, hats, as the London weather dictated, and his presence preceded him with the fragrance of Himalayan deodar, which he obtained from a secret purveyor.

In the ‘60s, ‘70s and up until the ‘80s, India’s international air carrier was the preferred airline in this part of the world. Its corporate leadership believed in 'God is in the small things'. Everything was looked at, and if not found up to the mark, acted upon. Service was the core philosophy both for Ground and Inflight Services.  

The staffers, where the ladies outnumbered the men, were meticulously chosen and groomed to perfection. They were bright, kind and more importantly efficient. Elegant ladies and gentlemen manned all visible points of service. Everything mattered - from ticket dockets, office atmospherics - the soft power of Independent India were on grand display.  In-flight services were the domain of Krish Diwan, the chief purser, and coincidently the son of the late Diwan-e-Aatam, the Lal and Shamsi family raconteur. An alpha male with the looks of Imran Khan, he led an amazing flight crew of efficient and charming in-flight personnel; the sky was his to explore. And on an Air India (the international carrier) flight where there was so much to look forward to – whether it was the attire, appearance and mannerisms of the flight crew, comfort and luxury were of paramount importance. JRD Tata (The flight’s chairman) was humble about his own needs, but he was very particular about customer service: “If you want excellence, you must aim at perfection. It has its drawbacks but being finicky is essential.” 

Air India (India’s international carrier) developed a fine reputation for its high-class on-board service that was talked about with admiration and envy. British Airways introduced a jet service that cut a few hours off the trip, however, passengers still preferred to fly by Air India, simply because of the way they were pampered on-board, making them feel like the flight carrier’s mascot – the Maharaja and of course, Maharanis. With more and more passengers opting for the graciousness and munificence of (the international carrier’s) Air India's first-class passage on the prestigious London-New York trans-Atlantic route, there was a growing request for an Indian Meal Experience.

Now flight catering services in London in those days were very European, thus a plan had to be thought through.  A task force was assembled, headed by Biren, their objective was to define, measure, analyse, design and verify the ultimate' India on a plate’ experience for their premiere customers. Recipes were procured, re-imagined, reconstructed based on guest surveys, catering infrastructure, skills and the availability of groceries. A shortlist was finally arrived at, to include:

* Tandoori-styled Chargrilled Chicken: The exotic taste of this King of Kebabs, made it an immediate crossover with talk of its deliciousness spreading globally. Invariably, India's Prime Ministers would offer visiting Heads of Government this delicacy, accompanied by naan bread.

* Basmati Pilaf combined with turmeric and saffron. This desirable combined the antiseptic property of turmeric (a medical breakthrough) and the aroma of saffron, which could be interpreted as perfume, was also gaining popularity. The fragrance of Basmati was desired tremendously. While the passengers may not have known it then, rice had been immortalised in the Krishi Parashara, ‘Rice is vitality, rice is vigour too, and rice indeed is the means of fulfilment of all ends in life. All beings subsist on rice.’

* River Fish: Stories of the recently returned colonial diaspora would be wrought with peons on the softness of India's river fish. It was indicated that this delicacy be served boneless, in a golden gravy. A Kundan Kofteh (jewels of fish dumplings) was thus born.

* Daal-e-Khas Malika: This slow-cooked lentil recipe of arhar dal (split pigeon pea) was gently simmered with condiments and yoghurt which made the dal or pulse aromatic, flavourful and perfumed.

* There also had to be lightly spiced bread roll: These lightly dusted rolls formed a fabulous accompaniment plus it catered to the 'carb desires 'of the time.

* Herbed Butter: Vedic era-styled white butter, flavoured with herbs and basil, were a must, seeing as how this butter spread on the spiced bread rolls would indeed be a treat.

* Shirazi Salad: A unique Indo-Iranian salad that would include diced red onions, cherry tomatoes, Persian cucumbers, Indian lime, parsley, sea salt and black pepper; favoured by the erstwhile Courts of Oudh. 

India's mango, on which peons and fables have been written, it's versatility and variety manifested in desserts, solos, pickled, cooked, blanched, stewed, even raw, the mango later became the inspiration for the eternal paisley design. Ghalib, arguably the most well-known Urdu poet, is known to have had a voracious appetite for the fruit, often consuming large quantities in one sitting. In quite a few of his letters, and in the compilation ‘Khutoot-e-Ghalib’ (Letters of Ghalib), you will find a mention of mangoes. 

* To complete the meal, there was the ‘Monsooned Malabar’, a freshly-brewed Coorg coffee as the beverage of choice; while those who preferred a lighter after-meal drink were offered Darjeeling tea.

It is these reimagined and reconstructed ‘Heirloom recipes’ that we share in this column - indicative of the Airlines’ greatness and the romance of a bygone Era.

CHARGRILLED TANDOOR INSPIRED CHICKEN THIGHS

Portion: 1

INGREDIENTS                                                           QUANTITY

1. Chicken Thighs with skin                                        2 Nos.

2. Garlic Paste                                                             10 g

3. Ginger Paste                                                           5 g

4. Mustard Oil                                                             20 ml

5. Red Chili Powder                                                    5 g

6. Yellow Chili Powder                                                3 g

7. Chaat Masala                                                          3 g

8. Lemon Juice                                                            10 ml

9. Salt                                                                          To Taste

10. Crushed Black Pepper                                          2 g

11. Hung Curd                                                             100 gms

METHOD:

1. Mix ginger and garlic paste with lemon juice and salt, marinate the chicken thighs in it, keep it aside.

2. Heat mustard oil till it smokes, let it cool down a little bit. Add red chili powder, yellow chili powder and salt. Mix it well. 

3. In hung curd, add chaat masala, crushed black pepper, the mustard oil mix. Mix it well to make a marinate. 

4. Now marinate the chicken thighs in the second marinate. Leave it for at least 2 hours.

5. Heat the grill and season it. Grill the thighs, skin side first and then from the other side as well.

6. Grill till chicken thighs are fully done.

7. Squeeze some lemon juice as soon as the grilled thighs come out of the grill.

TURMERIC AND SAFFRON RICE
Portion: 1

METHOD:

1. Wash Basmati rice once and keep it soaked in fresh water for about fifteen minutes.

2. Heat very little water and transfer it to a bowl. Add saffron strands to it.

3. Heat around a liter of water in a deep sauce pan add ghee, cardamom, clove and salt to it.

4. Crush the fresh turmeric root and add it to the boiling water.

5. Drain the water from the rice and put it in the boiling water.

6. Cook the rice in water till it is fully cooked and drain it in a strainer.

7. Remove the crushed turmeric root from the steamed rice.

8. Transfer the rice in a bowl, add saffron water with strands of it in.

9. Gently turn the rice with a spatula so that the saffron can release its color and flavor in the rice.

Kundan Kofteh 

River Fish Curried Dumplings 

Portion: 1

METHOD:

1. In a bowl, mix fish mince with all the mentioned ingredients except eggs and bread crumb.

2. Keep the mix aside in a cool place for at least 15 minutes.

3. Beat the egg in a bowl and add half of it to the fish mince mixture, add bread crumbs to provide binding to the mix.

4. Divide the mix in equal six parts and make dumplings out of it.

5. Heat the oil and fry the dumplings in it till golden brown. Keep aside.

6. Blend the golden fried onions with curd in a mixer for a few seconds and keep aside.

7. Heat oil and add garlic. Sauté it with coriander powder, salt, red chilli powder and garam masala powder.

8. Fry the masala for 2 or three minutes with half a cup of water.

9. When the oil rises, add the curd and onion mixture.

10. Stir lightly and cook on medium flame for 5 to 8 minutes.

11. When the oil rises again add water for the gravy.

12. Once it boils, lower the flame and add the koftas gently into the gravy and cook for 10 minutes.

13. Serve hot with Indian breads.

DAAL-E-KHAS MALIKA (The Queen of lentils) 

INGREDIENTS 

1 cup arhar dal (split pigeon peas)

1 tsp fresh ginger (grated)

1 tsp green chillies (fine chopped)

1 bay leaf

1/2 tsp turmeric

3 tbsp desi ghee / vegetable oil

Salt to taste

1/2 cup yoghurt

A pinch of saffron (grind in 2 tbsp of lukewarm water with mortar & pestle)

2 tbsp lemon juice

TO SMOKE

1 betel leaf

2 green cardamom & 2 cloves (grind to a paste with a tsp of water in mortar pestle)

A piece of charcoal

TO TEMPER

3/4 tsp cumin seeds

1/4 tsp fenugreek seeds

1 whole dried red chillies

2 tbsp onions (finely chopped)

1/2 tsp garlic (finely chopped)

1/2 tbsp jaggery (powdered)

4 tbsp diced tomatoes

5 mint leaves

METHOD:

1. Clean, wash and soak arhar lentils as explained above. Drain well.

2. Place lentils, 6 cups of warm water, grated ginger, green chillies, bay leaf, turmeric, and half tbsp of desi ghee in a thick-bottomed pot. Put it on moderately high heat. Stirring frequently, bring to full boil. Reduce to medium – low heat, cover with tight-fitting lid and let it simmer until the lentils turn soft and well-cooked.

3. Remove from heat, remove the bay leaf. Add salt. Mix yoghurt, dissolved saffron and lemon juice.

4. Place the cooked dal pot on moderate heat, whisk in the yoghurt mixture into the dal for few seconds or until dal becomes lightly creamy and smooth. Continue cooking, stir occasionally, reduce heat to low and let it simmer for 8 to 10 minutes.

5. Place a betel leaf on the cooked dal, over it place cardamoms and cloves paste followed by a small piece of burning coal (charcoal can be burnt on the open gas burner). Pour 1/2 tbsp of desi ghee and cover with a lid for 10 minutes, then remove the betel leaf and coal carefully.

6. Heat the remaining desi ghee in a small frying pan over moderate heat. Stir in cumin seeds and fenugreek seeds, sauté for a few seconds or until spices crackle. Add whole red chilli, sauté few seconds till chillies start turning colour, add in chopped onions and sauté. Now add chopped garlic, sauté until onion and garlic turn golden. Quickly add powdered jaggery and sauté, continue stirring until jaggery start caramelizing and turns a rich reddish brown. Stir in diced tomatoes and sauté for 10 -15 seconds and immediately pour the tempering into the cooked dal. Cover quickly and allow the tempering to seep into the dal for 1 to 2 minutes.

7. Garnish with mint leaves.

SHIRAZI SALAD

Portion: 1

METHOD:

1. Cut the cucumber lengthwise and take out slices (half-moon slices) out of it.

2. Roughly chop flat leaf parsley.

3. Take a bowl, add lemon juice, salt, black pepper to it. Add Extra Virgin Olive Oil to it and with the help of a whisk emulsify the dressing.

4. In a mortar and pestle crush cherry tomatoes and chopped flat leaf parsley together. Avoid crushing too much and turning it into a paste.

5. Toss cucumber, crushed tomatoes, pomegranate seeds and parsley in the dressing.

6.  Garnish with more pomegranate seeds.

MANGO PANNACOTTA

Portion: 3

METHOD:

1. Pour milk, cream, fresh mango pulp and sugar in a sauce pan. On low heat cook it and keep stirring till sugar dissolves and cream is hot. Do not boil. Set aside and let it cool slightly.

2. In a bowl add hot water and bloom the gelatin in it.

3. Add the bloomed gelatin in the cream mixture and stir until the gelatin is completely dissolved.

4. Set this mixture in jars, cups or shot glasses. Keep it in refrigerator and let it cool till it is set.

5. Top the jars with diced mangoes.

Diwan Gautam Anand

Guest Author The author is the Former Executive Vice President of ITC Hotels and currently, Founding Trustee of Cuisine India Foundation.